Ask the Nursery
Man! We get questionsÉ.
From the Davis Enterprise, October 27, 2005
Why do leaves
turn color in the fall?
This is right up
there with Ôhow do they grow seedless watermelons?Õ among the most-asked
questions directed at plant professionals.
The answer is
simple! The days get shorter, the nights get colder, and Jack Frost magically
paints theÉ.Well, actually, the answer is more complicated, involving daylength
(actually nightlength), temperature, nutrients, and genetics.
Trees that have
adapted to cold winter climates go through several steps as winter approaches.
The first part of the process is a reaction to longer nights. The plant forms a
layer at the base of the leaves that blocks the movement of carbohydrates
(sugars, starches) out of the leaves, and blocks the movement of minerals into
the leaves. That ÔabscissionÕ layer eventually gets brittle and breaks, so the
leaf falls.
But before that
happens, the plant produces less and less chlorophyll because it has less stuff
to make it from. That is the pigment which makes leaves green. It is also the
most fragile pigment, breaking down in sunlight very quickly. Usually the plant
is replenishing it very quickly. But as it breaks down and becomes less
abundant, the less common pigments of yellow and orange become visible. So
these are the first fall colors that we see. Those colors were already there;
weÕre just seeing them now because the green is gone. This first reaction
mostly follows the calendar, although severely drought-stressed plants will
begin to go dormant earlier than normal.
Some minerals are
mobile within the plant, moving from one place to another as needed. The plant
moves phosphorus out of the leaf and into the stem where it is stored during
cold weather. The absence of phosphorus changes the chemical reaction in the
leaves, and the remaining trapped carbohydrates are now made into certain other
pigments, notably the ones that are red and purple. So these are the more
spectacular colors that we see next. They werenÕt there before; the tree is
making them now out of whatÕs left in the leaf.
Some trees make
more of these pigments than others do, so it varies between species. There are
also genetic differences of seedlings within a species. The temperature from
year to year, and by the nutrient status of the specimen, also varies. Within
those species that have the pigments to begin with, sunny clear days and cool
nights encourage the production of more red and purple pigments. A tree with
adequate nutrition will have more basic material to work with to create
pigment. Trees that are overwatered have damaged root hairs, so theyÕve been
unable to take up nutrients readily during the summer.
If you want to see
these magical chemical reactions underway, head down West 8th Street
and look for the Chinese pistache, or Stanford Place and Kent Drive to look for
Ginkgo trees. Admire
the golden yellow color on the Modesto ashes (Fraxinus) on L Streets and other parts of old East
Davis. But we no longer
recommend ash trees due to various disease and pest problems.
For vivid fall
color in small spaces, plant Winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus ÔCompactaÕ), an adaptable deciduous shrub
with flame red fall foliage.
Trees for fall
color in Davis:
Pistacia chinensis
Most are grown
from seed. Female trees have attractive red berries that attract song birds.
Fall color varies from bright yellow to dark red. A male variety, Keith Davey,
has reliable red fall color and no fruit, but availability is limited as it
must be grafted.
Ginkgo biloba
Varieties: just be
sure to buy grafted male trees, as the fruit of the female tree smells like dog
manure. And watch the young trees to make sure rootstock doesnÕt grow or you
may end up with a female. Slow growers. Ginkgos are tough, reliable, and
pest-free.
Acer rubrum
hybrids; Acer x freemanii.
Varieties: Autumn
Blaze is biggest, fastest. October Glory has a nice round form. Red Sunset is
slower growing. All have red fall color, ranging from orange to dark red.
Pyrus calleryana
Varieties:
Bradford is most common but has poor branch structure. Chanticleer, RedSpire,
Trinity, Cleveland Select, Capital are all better, but all require careful
pruning. Narrow, upright habit makes them suitable for side yards or small
spaces. White flowers in spring. All have wine red fall color.
Liriodendron
tulipifera
Oval-upright
habit, nice yellow fall color, and interesting tulip-like flowers in the
spring. Not spectacular, but attractive. Good examples on the streets near
Emerson Junior High School in west Davis.
More plant
chemistry in the landscapeÉ
We see a similar
reaction in broad-leaved evergreens such as Star jasmine (Trachelospermum) and Japanese boxwood (Buxus japonica), whereby they discolor in the winter during
cold weather. Cold soil reduces
the availability of phosphorus, and overwatering or saturated soil conditions
reduce the uptake of it because roots are damaged. So the phosphorus moves into
the stem, and the leaves manufacture some of the purple or red pigments. But no
abscission layer is formed, so they donÕt drop.
This is not a
problem, and normal color returns with warmer weather. This winter coloration
is attractive in some of our landscape plants: the white variegated portions of
Euonymus fortunei ÔEmerald
GaietyÕ turn a pretty pink color in the winter, and Heavenly bamboo (Nandina
domestica) varieties turn
varying shades of red or purple.
Some trees go
through the pigment process, but donÕt form an abscission layer. Turkey and Red
oaks are good examples (Quercus shumardii and Q. rubra).
First a red pigment forms –rather pretty -- and breaks down, then
brownÉand the brown, dead leaves hang on until they are finally beaten off
during winter storms or pushed off as new growth emerges in the spring.
Needless to say, this greatly reduces their ornamental value.
We get more
questionsÉ.
When the heck
is it going to rain?!?
Judging from the
long-term forecast as I write this, not any time real soon. But that isnÕt
particularly unusual. We average less than an inch of rain in October here, and
completely dry October doesnÕt presage a dry winter. The rainy season really
gets underway later in November (2Ó), with our heaviest rainfall December
through February at 2 – 3Ó +
each month. By the way, donÕt forget to water plants in containers and under
overhangs.
For those of you
who remember El Ni–o and La Ni–a years—this one looks like La Nada. No
significant warming or cooling of the ocean temperatures affecting our climate
according to the latest data (for more information, go to Google and type in
ÒSouthern Oscillation NOAAÓ). So
we probably wonÕt have an unusually wet or dry year. IÕm predicting about
average rainfall, 18 – 19Ó or so. You heard it here first.
How about frost?
First frost nearly
every year that IÕve been here has been around Thanksgiving. But nights in the
40Õs make tropical plants unhappy, so bring your house plants inside now. Give
Ôem a good shower and make sure no ants are hitchhiking in, living in the potting
soil! Then move them to the brightest window you have. The transition from
outside lighting to inside can be a shock.
This would be a
good time to assess your subtropical plants and figure out where theyÕre going
to spend the winter. Jade plants and others that are in pots can be moved up
against the east or south facing walls, preferably under an overhang. Stick
some stakes in the ground around young citrus trees and buy some Ôseedling
blanketÕ so youÕll be ready to protect them if we get unusually cold nights.
We get
lettersÉ.
ÒPer your
instructions, I have dug a hole [to plant my tree, as described last month] 3
feet wide by 18 feet deep. What do I do now?Ó
Call your wife and
ask her to bring you a sandwich or a ladder, depending on her mood.
LetÕs try that
again: for #15 containers, dig a hole 3Õ (feet) wide by 18Ó (inches) deep.
I blame my
long-suffering editor.
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