Going Native!
And other plant choices to reduce water
use.
Originally published in the Davis Enterprise
Nov. 22, 2007
ÒHow can I convert
my yard to use less water? Can I just stop watering my lawn? Which native
plants can I plant?Ó
Consciousness
about water use has waxed and waned over the years. The drought of the 1970Õs
motivated many homeowners to consider planting Òwater-wiseÓ landscapes.
Subsequent wet winters diminished that fervor. When water meters came along,
some people began to consider the cost savings of reduced water use.
In most cases,
simply watering correctly
can reduce your water use substantially. Most homeowners water too often, and
sprinklers send water where it isnÕt used or needed. Water slowly, deeply, and
infrequently. Follow the weather and provide plants what they actually are
using. Right now, for example, your sprinkler system should be turned off. Turn
it on manually for a full cycle every 10 – 14 days if we donÕt get rain.
Generally we donÕt need to water at all during December through February.
But the customer
who asked the questions above wanted to go a step further. She wanted to make a
long-term reduction in landscape water use, perhaps eliminate landscape
watering entirely. When she
mentioned that she was a renter, my first suggestion was to check with her
landlord! But converting your landscape to reduce water use doesnÕt have to be an
all-at-once project.
It may be
necessary to modify the existing sprinkler system by converting it to drip
irrigation or bubblers. If this sounds daunting, consult a nursery or landscape
professional. It may be as simple as removing your sprinkler heads, screwing on
an adapter, and attaching drip tubing and emitters. In any case, you will want to ÒzoneÓ your yard by water use.
The area 2 - 3Õ around the lawn
will be getting more water than most native plants prefer, but that would be a
good area for some colorful flowering perennials.
Some of the
current plants may need to be removed, although many common landscape plants
are just fine with less frequent watering so long as they get a thorough
soaking each time. Finally, you will have more plants to choose from if you
broaden your selection from strictly California natives to include natives of
our southwest, the Mediterranean, South Africa, Australia, and other regions
with similar rainfall patterns to ours.
What happens if
you just stop watering your lawn? During the drought of the 1970Õs, turf areas
at the UC Davis horticulture department were allowed to go completely dry. Some
grass species died, but others turned brown and went into a semi-dormant
condition. These latter included the tall fescues, forebears of the dwarf
fescue lawns that have become our most popular lawn types in recent years. The
fescues can go much longer between waterings than bluegrass and ryegrass lawns.
But they are ÒclumpÓ grasses, so
your semi-dead lawn may take on a patchy appearance. It may be better to reduce your total turf area, if you have a need
for a lawn area for kids and pets, and continue to water it appropriately (one
inch of water, 2x a week). The most drought-tolerant grass locally is
bermudagrass, but it has drawbacks (invasive growth, winter dormancy).
If the patchy
appearance doesnÕt bother you, you can complement it with some of the larger
ornamental grasses on the margin of the lawn: Pennisetum, Miscanthus, Stipa,
and more. These would provide a more informal ÒmeadowÓ look, and many have
showy late summer plumes. There are a few California native grasses to choose
from as well, though they are shorter and less showy. If you donÕt need a lawn
at all, consider a succulent ground cover such as Sedum, or use pathway bark.
As you choose the
larger evergreen shrubs that form the backbone of the landscape, be aware that
many natives are slow growers. In their native habitat they grow during the
rainy season, and rest during the dry summer. Here are some evergreen native
shrubs and small trees.
Medium-size shrubs
that can be planted 3 – 6Õ apart include:
Carpenteria
californica – Bush
anemone. A nice, clean-looking low shrub with white flowers in mid-spring.
Mahonia
aquifolium – Oregon
grape. Foliage resembles holly. Yellow flowers in mid-winter, followed by blue
berries popular with birds. Shade tolerant.
Salvia species – our native Salvias have
fragrant grey foliage, are very tolerant of heat and drought, and have whorls
of blue flowers in spring. Hummingbirds love them.
Larger shrubs or
small trees to 6Õ or more; plant these 6 – 8Õ apart:
Garrya
elliptica – Dark
foliage on a tough plant with interesting trailing clusters of flowers in
mid-spring.
Heteromeles
arbutifolia – Toyon,
aka Christmas berry. Aptly named for the bright red winter berries.
Lyonothamnus
floribundus –
Catalina ironwood. Shiny, lustrous foliage and an iron-colored bark. Good
substitute for redwoods, though uncommon in the nursery trade.
Rhamnus
californica –
Coffeeberry. Bold foliage and showy winter berries.
Although it is
deciduous, Cercis occidentalis,
the Western redbud, is worth considering in the backbone of the yard: it is a
shrub or small tree with vivid magenta flowers in spring, and attractive
grey-green foliage through the growing season.
If you choose
these slower-growing evergreens, you can inter-plant with a faster-growing type
for more immediate gratification. Ceanothus, the Wild lilac, comes in dozens of forms,
ranging from low ground covers to shrubs that are big enough to use as trees.
Ceanothus are fast growers, have shiny, clean green foliage, and have fragrant
blue flowers in spring. Great for wildlife and for drawing bees to the garden,
but they tend to decline after 7 – 10 years. So plant them among the
larger, slower plants (donÕt crowd them) and enjoy them for the first few
years. Then they can gradually be removed as the others fill in.
Foreground areas
can be planted with native perennials for seasonal color. In shady area,
consider Columbines (Aquilegia)
and Coral Bells (Heuchera).
Native and garden hybrids of Penstemon can take full sun or light shade. The California fuchsia (Zauschneria, now Epilobium) has gaudy orange-red flowers in late
summer and fall. All of these listed are popular with hummingbirds.
There are many
non-native plants that are particularly drought-tolerant, including some of our
best low-growing landscape shrubs. Artemisias, which include native and
introduced species, have silver foliage that provides a perfect complement to
green or red leaves, and these are tough plants! Cistus,
the rockrose, has an informal growth habit, is very drought tolerant, and
blooms in late spring with pink or white flowers which resemble single roses.
The common kitchen rosemary is an excellent landscape plant, and some of the
upright forms (Tuscan Blue, Spice Islands) get 4Õ or more tall. All have lovely
blue flowers in winter. The introduced species and hybrids of Salvias come in a
range of sizes and colors, with many blooming through the fall and into the
winter.
For larger
landscape shrubs, Xylosma congestum
and Feijoa sellowiana
(Pineapple guava) are well-adapted here, tolerant of regular watering or
drought. These large evergreen shrubs are excellent background plants.
Finally, bare
areas can be filled in winter and spring with flowers from California poppies
and other wildflowers, which you can plant right now from seed. Or plant
spring-flowering bulbs such as Daffodils, Grape hyacinth, and botanical tulips.
Their growing season coincides with the winter rains, and then they are fully
dormant through the summer and need no additional water. Unplanted areas can be
lined with landscape fabric and 2 – 4 inches of mulch to prevent weeds
and conserve water.
ItÕs pretty easy
to go native, with some patience and a little planning. Plant selection and
proper watering are key.
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